The Adventures of Frank J. Miles

The Final Chapter of Frank's European Adventure

2007-12-20T08:00:00.000-08:00

After 5 months, it was hard leaving Europe and my friends but part of me was ready to come back home. And there were subtle signs that my family was ready for me to come home as well. Just a couple weeks ago, my little niece was talking with her dad (my brother) and she said,” Dad, do you remember Frank? You know… the guy who lived downstairs.” When you go from Uncle Frank to the guy downstairs, it’s time to get back.

We experienced a little turbulence on the plane, but all in all, my flight back wasn’t too bad. I think it was 9 hours to Philadelphia and 2 hours to Nashville, a piece of cake. In the airport, it was odd to hear people speaking English. I was used to hearing different accents and got in a habit of trying to determine where people were from. In the airport, I kept telling myself, “They are American, they are American.” It took a while to break the habit.

It feels good being home but when I look back, it was an absolutely incredible ride. It’s hard to put in words. I owe some many people, (more than I can list here) so much. For some, I don’t know if I can possibly repay them for everything they’ve done for me. But I hope that they will give me the opportunity to return the favor some day and visit the big US of A and maybe, just maybe, my old Kentucky home. It’s really nothing like you see in the movies. I promise.

I’m Ron Burgundy. You stay classy, San Diego.

Germany - Sven & Johannes

2007-12-10T08:00:00.000-08:00

(Me & Sven, having a dark German beer.)

(Johannes, he's holding a beer but I'm not sure what he has in his other hand.)

With just about a week and a half left, I flew to see my friends, Johannes (from the Camino de Santiago) in Lubeck, Germany and then to Berlin to meet my friend, Sven. It was really good seeing them both. I had a great time. We sampled some Germany beers, the Christmas markets, hot wine (that's right, hot wine) and some bratwursts. Not bad at all.

This is me standing on both sides of the former Berlin Wall. I’m trying to replicate a picture that I took 5 years ago only to find out that I wasn’t standing in the same place. Either way, it’s still cool photo.

Gent, Belgium - Nele

2007-12-06T08:00:00.000-08:00

Home sweet European home! After Berlin, I took an overnight 13 hour bus ride to Brussels and then a 1 hour train ride to Gent. (I think I set beside a girl who worshipped the devil but I can’t be certain.) Anyway, I stayed with my good friend, Nele. She’s all grown up now: married, running a successful clothing store and raising her beautiful daughter, Charlotte.

On a side, it was very interesting to see the language differences for children. I was very used to hearing different languages but to hear a mother tell her child, “Bravo”, “Pardon”, even Peek-a-boo is not Peek-a-boo. And animals sounds are different as well. I think they say a cow says “Boo”, not “Moo.” Just things you wouldn’t think about it.

Speaking of not thinking... Nele lives in Aalst, just outside of Gent. One morning, while she was at work, I borrowed their bike and rode into Gent to see the old stomping grounds. Well, I bundled up with 3 layers of shirts but I didn’t even think about my socks. I threw on a thin pair of running socks, slipped on my practically all mesh running shoes and set out on my 1 ½ hour bike ride in sub 30 degree weather. The first 20 minutes were fine, no problem. But after 30 minutes of riding through the brisk wind, my feet felt like they were going to fall off. Imagine the scene on Dumb & Dumber when they are riding to Vail on their motor scooter. When I got to Gent, I ran into the first modestly priced restaurant and ordered something just to warm my feet. (And, of course, I followed it up with a nice Belgian beer. I deserved it.)

I had a great time and I owe Nele & her husband, Dirk, many thanks for putting up with me for a couple of days.

Barcelona, Spain

2007-12-04T08:00:00.000-08:00

I almost didn’t go to Barcelona. But everytime I asked someone what they thought of the city, the first thing they would do is grin and then proceed to tell me how much they loved it. I didn’t understand how one place could be that great, but you just have to see it for yourself.

(The park in Barcelona.)

You have beautiful tropical weather, incredible architecture throughout the city including some of Gaudi’s masterpieces, beautiful parks and as if this wasn’t enough, you are on right on the beach, literally. Take all this and add it to the nightlife of Spain and you have a city like no other. A nightlife where they don't start going out until midnight or later and don't get home to 5 or 6:00am or later. (It’s no wonder they need to take a nap in the afternoon because they are partying most of the night.)

(Taking a Boyscout shot.)

If you are going out in Barcelona, I would recommend you stop off at a bar called “Chupiteria” which means “Shot Bar.” Guess what they specialized in. You got it. Shots! The menu consisted of about 400 different shots including one named “Kentucky.” I usually don’t take shots because I don’t find hard liquor necessarily “tasty” but what could I do? I’m in Spain, 4000 miles away from home and they named a shot after my good old Kentucky home. In case you’re wondering, it’s a real creative shot. One shot of whiskey and one shot of beer, that’s all. It made for a good picture anyway. But there was another shot that I thought was worthy of a try if nothing else, for a good story. They call this shot, “A Boyscout.” Essentially, they pour a shot (not sure what kind of liquor), set it on fire and give you a skewer and a miniature marshmallow (see the picture above.) You then roast the marshmallow over the shot’s flame, blow out the fire, dip the marshmallow in the shot, eat it and take the shot. I thought it was pretty creative and it turned out to be pretty tasty too.

(Casa Batlló)

This is just one of Antoni Gaudi’s masterpieces called Casa Batlló. Of all the architecture I’ve seen in Europe, his work is by far, my favorite. He was a creative and playful architect; using curved lines, bright colors and shapes/images you would see in nature (the balconies above remind you of fish heads.) One of his most famed projects, which is still in progress today (Gaudi has passed away but they continue with his designs) is “La Sagrada Familia.” Take a Gothic cathedral and mix it with Disneyland and a touch of Gaudi’s own personal touch and you have it. It’s something you just have to see to believe.

If you get a chance or if you are anywhere near Spain, get yourself to Barcelona. It’s pricey like all major cities but its well worth it.

Granada, Spain

2007-12-03T08:00:00.000-08:00

(The city of Granada, the cathedral is in the center.)

I love to travel but I also wanted to continue studying Spanish so I went to Granada, Spain for 3 weeks to get a little of both. Granada is only 1 hour away from the Sierra Nevada Mountains and 1.5 hours from the beach. In spring, they say you can go skiing in the morning and can be lying on the beach in the afternoon. I skipped the beach and opted just to go skiing, twice!!! We went on the opening day. In the afternoon, it was so warm you could almost ski without a jacket. (I was wondering why it never got cloudy until I looked out and saw that we were above the clouds...) But most importantly, I didn't go flying into the woods, head first like I did in Vail, Colorado last year. I have to thank my English instructor, Jo, for that. Thanks Jo!

Like Salamanca, Granada is a beautiful city with a plethora of history, architecture and night life. (I love Kebabs!) But if you go to Granada, you have to see the Alhambra. It’s a huge Arabic castle (actually, a series of palaces and gardens; it takes about 3 hours just to walk through it all) filled with beautiful gardens, fountains, art & architecture. Check out some of the photos.

Our class went to a restaurant one morning for hot chocolate and churros. And notice I didn't say chocolate milk; I'm talking about a bar of hot chocolate melted down and poured into a cup. Thick enough to lay your spoon on without it sinking. Not that is hot chocolate!

(My Spanish class sitting down for a typical Spanish breakfast.)

¡Viva España!

Lengua de Cerdo - Salamanca, Spain

2007-12-02T08:00:00.000-08:00

(Lengua de cerdo)

After the Camino, I was anxious to start studying Spanish again. I enrolled in Colegio Delibes, an intensive immersion program in Salamanca and signed up to stay with a host family with full board (three meals a day included.) Spaniards eats a lot of pork and seafood. And nothing goes to waste; they eat it all: ears, face, feet, etc. My host mom had prepared pork chops for me several times before so it should have been a clue that something suspicious was going on when she asked me if I wanted to try "this pork." Another student from Germany was also staying with the host family and she had decided not to eat the "pork." I asked her why she didn't want the pork today because I had seen her eat pork before. She said that she didn't like pork in sauce. (Another, "wait, this isn't right" moment.) In reality, she had already spoken to my host mom and decided not to eat this "pork."

Well, the truth finally came out after and only after I cleaned my plate. As I'm chewing the last bite, my host mom asked me if I liked the pork. I said I did and asked her if she had any more. It really was good and I really could have eaten more. Then she asked me if I knew which part of the pig the meat was from. My mind started to race and to be honest, I was expecting a lot worse, (mountain oysters for example) when she uttered the word, "lengua." "Lengua de cerdo" is pig's tongue. Not exactly what I had thought but like I said, it was good. I had seconds.

While in Europe, I tried a lot of interesting food. Horsemeat in Holland, goat cheeses in France, and pig tongue, a part of the pig face, and a dish that looked like a black rice cake made of rice that has been soaked in pig's blood and barbequed. Mmm!

(Salamanca at night.)

Here is the city of Salamanca at night (from the bridge where you can see the cathedral). It is an incredibly beautiful city with so much medieval architecture: the cobblestone roads, 2 cathedrals, the main plaza, gardens and the University of Salamanca (one of the oldest universities in Europe.) And a lot of wild university students. Students didn't even go out until 1:00am and didn't finish until 5:00 or 6:00 in the morning. One club didn't even get started until 5:00am. Quite an experience...

I just loved this sign. I saw on a local shop door while walking down one of the main shopping streets. It reads "Cerrado por vacaciones hasta el dia 19 de noviembre. Disculpen las molestais." Essentially, "Closed for vacation until November 19th, sorry about the inconvenience." And I took this picture on November 4th! It's great! We are going on vacation for a couple weeks, see you later. It's a great to live. It's a different mentality from the commercial world we are used to here in the States. A majority of shops in Spain are locally owned and run in Spain. The owners open the shop in the morning and they close it at night. Except for "siesta" where they close from about 3:00pm to 5:00 or 6:00pm for lunch, they are there all day. Most of the shops are also closed all day on Sunday to give the owners at least one day of rest. It can be an "inconvenience" when we are used to 24 hours a day, 7 days a week but you have to give it to them. Viva la Espana!

Holland (one last time) - And my modeling career.

2007-12-01T11:29:00.000-08:00

(Me, after the Camino de Santiago)

Too funny! I went back to Groningen, Holland one last time. (I couldn´t get enough.) I had an incredible time as I did the month prior. And I had a lot of great moments but one in particular sticks out. And due to the artwork and raw unrestrained genius of my brother (Rights reserved, thanks Den!) I feel compelled to share it with you.

As you can see from the picture, I´ve trimmed up a little bit on the Camino de Santiago. And as I was walking through a clothing store (exploring the European fashion), someone approached me and asked if I had done any modeling before. I said that I hadn´t and he asked me if I would be interested. I didn´t say a word, just gave an expression of curiousity/contemplation and he said, "Come with me."

To cut a long story short, William is a very talented artist (nothing commercial) and he asked me to model for 2 hours or so. After some debate over a cup of tea, I finally agreed and we met the next day. Regardless of what you might think, it can be quite challenging.

Try doing this and really try it, "Smile, tense your stomach and arm muscles, turn your face slightly to the left, stand up straight, keep your arms to your side, don´t clench your fists, hold this for 1 or 2 minutes and now turn your head more to the right, look confident and after all of this, looked relaxed." Relaxed! How can someone possible look relaxed after all of that? That´s tough stuff for 2 hours.

And you have a wide range of "looks" or facial expressions. Look mad or angry, confident and my personal favorite, "sexy." I just laughed because I had no idea what a "sexy" look was. (but now I do so watch out.) I haven´t seen the pictures yet but it should be interesting.

Do this though. Get to a mirror right now and show yourself your "sexy" look. No, better yet, take a picture of it and send it to me. No, just look at a billboard or a magazine and everyone will have this look. It just seems funny at first but its very normal.

I joke, but William was very talented. He knew how to get the right lighting, the background, and even had me try on different clothes. We were walking down the street in Groningen and he just saw something he liked. We stopped right there and started taking pictures in the street as people passed by.

But the proof for me was when I had him take one picture of me with my digital camera. Just one. I was really surprised. Of all the pictures I´ve taken in my life, I think about 2 or 3 have been decent ("Good" would be a stretch). But the single photo he took in 5 seconds, seemingly without effort, I could imagine seeing it hanging on the wall at JCPenney´s. (at least Wal-mart) I couldn´t believe it. He was very good.

It was a great experience. Thanks William!

Camino de Santiago - Santiago and Finsterre!

2007-11-09T08:00:00.000-08:00

Santiago de Compostella! - September 5 to October 6, 2007

Santiago de Compostella! Its a beautiful sight to see, especially if you just walked 500 miles to see it. What´s left to say.

And for me, the highlight of the Camino is Finsterre and watching the sunset over the Atlantic Ocean. It´s really hard to describe in words. It´s breathtaking.

Its a ritual that at sunset, you burn an item of clothing that you wore on the Camino. Its actually not a bad idea because after 30 days of wearing only 2 changes of clothes, all of your clothes are completely ruined.

But maybe it symbolizes the old part of you that you let go. The part that the camino changed and replaced with something better. Who knows. But it made a nice ending to an incredible experience!

Camino de Santiago - Some Highlights

2007-11-08T08:00:00.000-08:00

I´ve decided not to elaborate on every detail of my experiences and lessons learned on the Camino because, 1) there is just too much to say and ... 2) I´ve decided to write a book that details most of it.

But I do want to include some highlights and interesting points.

1. I walked over 500 miles straight! Over the Pyrenees mountains and the entire width of Spain.
2. I slept in a church (and the crucifix looks a little spooky at night.)
3. I slept in a corn field with nothing but a sleeping bag and a poncho (in October). There was so much fog that my sleeping bag was completely soaked when I woke up.
4. I attempted to walk 90 kilometers in 1 night. I would have had a better chance if I didn´t miss a waymarker at 12:00 midnight and get lost for 2 hours. When I finally found someone, they couldn´t point out where I was on my map.
5. I fasted for 3 days (drinking only bottled water) walking over 30 kilometers each day. I lost about 10 kilos or 20 pounds in the process.

Other random points of interest:

In Spain, when you order a hot chocolate, that´s exactly what you get. It´s a bar of chocolate melted down into a liquid. Its the real deal! If you let it set a while, it will actually start to harden. It´s the way hot chocolate should be done.

Hungry? Sometimes you got to do what you got to do. Life on the Camino is good but its not easy. :)

Zoom in and take a look. That´s 6 flies crawling around on his face. I know your thinking, ¨Yeah, what´s the big deal¨ but try it. It´s impossible.

This is my friend´s foot, not mine. Now those are real blisters.

Moral of the story? When you drink beer, please drink one at a time.

Any many many more...

Camino de Santiago - Don´t drink the water!

2007-11-08T07:02:00.000-08:00

I´m on day 19 of the Camino de Santiago. My blisters have, for the most part, healed. My boots have broken in and my body has become accustomed to the daily grind of hiking each day. And even my mind, with occasional lapses, has becomes used to the slow pace of walking for hours and hours.

And when the day finally came that all of these things came together and I felt like I had finally mastered the Camino, I and several other pilgrims made the mistake of drinking the water. Drinking the tap water is the norm and I´ve been doing it from the start of the trip. In fact, Spain installed public water fountains along the trail so that pilgrims wouldn´t go thirsty. But the rumor is that some farmers (those bastards) because of a mild winter, had sprayed the crops to kill a rodent (mouse looking creatures) from destroying the crops. In doing so, it got into the water system, into the tap water, in the fountains and the taps, into my water bottle and into my stomach for the last couple of days.

Some people became sick immediately, diarrhea & vomiting that very night. But I was fine. The next day, we found out the water had been contaminated but it had only given me gas. I figured that whatever bacteria I got from drinking the water in Costa Rica was eating whatever pollutants they had here in Spain, mere child´s play.

And so I tracked on to the next town not giving it much thought. Well, at about 5:00pm that night, I started to feel really tired and decide to take a afternoon siesta (God bless Spain.) It was then and there that it hit me like a freight train. Fever, chills, upset stomach, etc. I was so exhausted, I didn´t want to get up to go to the bathroom. It was bad news. Luckily no diarrhea or vomiting though!

Fortunately, I felt better the next day, at least enough to walk about 10 miles to the next town to get some rest. I´ve been taking it easy since then. Each day gets a little better.

By tomorrow, I will be in Leon, Spain.

Camino De Santiago - First week

2007-11-08T07:01:00.001-08:00

I am in Day 8 of the Camino de Santiago. Essentially, you wake up, walk 6,7,8 or more hours each day to the next town or city, wash your clothes, eat dinner, and go to bed. Or at least that is the way it has been for me for the last week. This will change though. The ¨Camino¨has a way of teaching you. (or ¨explaining it to you¨as my Dad liked to say). My backpack weighed about 18 kilograms or about 40 pounds because I had my tent inside. They advise you not to take more than 8 to 10 kilograms but I thought the extra weight would be good excercise and I liked being able to camp when I liked. Well, I had no troubles with breathing or muscle pain, but it will tear up your feet and your joints. My feet would be swollen, red and feeling like they were going to explode each night. I would sometimes loose feeling in my toes and it started to take a toll on my knees. Today, I found out you could mail the tent to Santiago (5 kilos) for about $10. ¡Hasta la vista!

Anyway, I learned an important lesson today and each day it teaches me another. It also gives me a pain in a different muscle, joint or just another blister.

And for all of this, I can easily say that this is going to be (and already has to a degree) one of the BEST experiences in my life and I would highly encourage (almost threaten) that everyone do it. It is absolutely amazing! The landscape, the terrain, the people, the camino, the way of life, the simplicity, the time to think, to breathe, the freedom, the pain, everything, its aboslutely INCREDIBLE! I can´t emphasize this enough.

You can walk many different paths and you can take as much or as little time as you like but I would encourage at least 30 days. I get the feeling and other people have said this as well, that the Camino has a way of breaking you down and rebuilding you. Right now, I´m in the breaking down process but somehow, I´m enjoying it. Crazy.

Buen Camino!

Camino de Santiago - Day 1

2007-11-08T07:00:00.000-08:00

(Day 1 of the Camino at the train station in St. Jean Pied de Port, France)

The Camino De Santiago ("The Way of St. James" in English) is a pilgrimage to the city of Santiago de Compestella in the north of Spain. You can start wherever you like but the most traversed and the most famous route is the Camino Frances (from St. Jean Pied de Port in France). Basically, its a 764 kilometer (roughly 500 mile) hike across the north of Spain. You can walk another 90 km to the coast, Finsterre. ("Fin" meaning "end" and "terre" meaning "earth." Essentially, the Romans believed that this was the furthermost point on the globe and from here, you can watch the ocean swallow the sun each day. And it really does look like it.) Well, I could go on and on but there are a lot of websites that describe the origins and history of the pilgrimage. It´s worth taking a look.

Go to Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Way_of_St._James or just do a Google search.

I hiked the entire way from St. Jean to Finsterre in about 31 days but I stopped in Santiago for 3 days for the celebration and to meet up with fellow pilgrims and friends. It was one of the best experiences of my life. Hands down.

Day 1: St Jean Pied de Port, France to Roncesvalles, Spain

The first day is one of the toughest. Its about 27 kilometers (about 17 miles) walk over the Pyrenees mountains. The views are spectacular but its physically challenging, cold and long. Within 4 hours, I already had a fresh new blister on my heel that stayed with me (with every step) for about a week. This was the first of many to come. I remember feeling a little soreness in my heel and thinking, ¨I will wait just a bit before I take my shoe off.¨ When I stopped 15 minutes later, the blister had already busted and continued to get bigger and bigger.

When I made it to Roncesvalles, I put up my tent, ate some cereal and just laid there. I couldn´t move.

Where have I been?

2007-11-07T08:10:00.000-08:00

Well.... Europe.

I´ve been doing a little traveling all over. Some by train, some by plane and a lot on foot (a little over 500 miles). I´ve ditched the map because it took too long to load but I´ll try to add a link later.

Some of the noteworthy cities:

Belgium - Brussels and Gent
Holland - Groningen and Amsterdam
France - Marseille, La Ciotat, and Paris
Italy - Milan and Bergamo
Germany - Kassel, Munster and Hamburg (coming soon)
Spain - Camino de Santiage (Leon, Burgos, Santiago de Compestella, Finsterra), Madrid, Salamanca, Toleda, Granada and Barcelona!

Aurelie - Paris, France

2007-11-05T08:00:00.000-08:00

(Aurelie & Me)

Next stop, Paris, France to visit my good friend, Aurelie a couple of days before I walked the Camino de Santiago. Again, her hospitality was limitless. She showed me around Paris, had me sample different kinds of French dishes (cheeses, breads, wines, crepes, etc. At my request, she even prepared ¨Ratatouille¨like the film. And...

And she even took me to a very nice Arabic/Morrocan restaurant. I was surprised at how great the music, food and drink were. I couldn´t even begin to tell you what I had but it was all great. It´s like nothing I´ve ever had before. And the treat came at the end of the meal. This bong looking contraption above is a Shi-Sha (I have no idea how to spell it.) Essentially, its a bong and you smoke... Tobacco! There are several types of flavored tobacco you can try. Its more flavor than tobacco but definitely worth trying one time.

I also continued my art education by revisiting The Louvre (looking for DaVinci Code clues and the Mona Lisa), the Orsay Museum, Pantheon, etc. Paris is an incredible city.

Annegreet! - Groningen, Holland

2007-11-04T08:00:00.000-08:00

(Annegreet´s home in Een, Holland)

After two weeks in Italy, I flew to Holland to see Anne and her stomping grounds. It´s a shame that Holland gets Amsterdam´s reputation because the rest of the country is nothing like it. The north of Holland is extremely green, lush and beautiful. And because its so flat, you can see the countryside and farms for miles and miles.

Again, there is so much to say about my stay. It was absolutely incredible and one of the highlights of my trip. As you can see, Anne´s parents live in a very nice house in the countryside. (Yes, their house has a thatched roof as do most houses in the area.) And from the time I walked in the door, they treated me like family. Maybe better than. I told them that I liked to see and try different things and they did just that. I had horse meat (lekker!) several times, sampled countless beers, wines, cheeses and typical Dutch dishes (my personal favorite, Stoomport (?sp?), experienced a real Dutch BBQ and birthday party, went on beautiful bike rides and runs through the countryside, went to a horse show (I had to go to Holland to watch one of these...) and much much more. I can´t thank them enough.

(Annegreet´s dog, Fritz)

Fritz, Annegreet´s dog, was great. He absolutely loved to play, especially with his ball. I don´t think I´ve ever seen a dog with so much personality. Sometimes he fetched the ball and others, he made you fetch it from him. We had some good times. I came very close to tucking him away in my luggage and taking him with me. Part of me thinks I should have.

Regardless, when Annegreet´s father had his birthday party, we celebrated outside on the patio. Well, Fritz, thinking that since we were outside and someone would play with him, waited at the trunk of the tree you see above. (They sometimes keep the ball up there when they are finished playing with him.) What´s funny is that he waited there for over 4 hours! Poor Fritz. He didn´t budge an inch in that whole time. He just stared at the ball hoping and praying that someone would play. After it was dark, I went over and threw it a couple times just to reward him for his persistence. Fritz!

(Me, Annegreet, her brother and Mom after the 9K)

As luck would have it, I was able to run a 9K in Groningen with Annegreet´s brother, Henk. Although I don´t remember the time now, I finished in one of my times ever because the entire course was flat. (as is all of Holland)

Anne, her Mom, and our friend, Jolanda were waiting for me at the finish line. And Annegreet´s Mom bought me a bouquet of flowers congratulating me on the race.

I had such a great time and everyone was incredibly nice. It was really hard leaving.

Matteo! - Milan, Italy

2007-11-03T08:00:00.000-07:00

(Matteo working on an art exhibition.)

Next, I went to Milan, Italy to visit my very good friend Matteo. Matteo is one of the most incredible people you will ever meet. He is second to none. He just has a zest for life and it energizes everyone around him. Its no wonder he is an artist (contemporary). While at his place, he & his family treated me like royalty. He gave me tours of Milan (including the Duomo), Bergamo, (his home town), and hiked in the Pre-Alps of North Italy.

(Hiking in the Pre-Alps)

Blowout! Matteo & I also went hiking for about 3 hours near Bergamo to get a nice view of the surrounding cities (you can see for miles). Well, just as we are about to reach the peak, one of Matteo´s boots completely blows out. It was like nothing I´d ever seen. As you can see, the entire sole just falls out. And before he reaches the bottom, he is walking with one foot in a boot and the other in a sock. Imagine walking on rocky, jagged terrain in socks for 3 hours. Incredible. I couldn´t help but laugh. I offered to trade boots but he wouldn´t have it. He handled it all in good spirits. It still makes me smile thinking about it.

Other interesing facts:

Matteo had to go to a couple of art exhibitions in Germany and he graciously rearranged his plans so I could tag along. Among others, we went to the Documenta Project in Kassel (only every 5 years) and the Sculpture Project in Munster (only every 10 years). I met so many great people, learned so much about art, especially contemporary art, and saw art I wouldn´t think humanly possible and had a great time.

Be careful when you stay with an Italian family. Especially if you are trying to watch your weight. Eating is quasi compulsary, although, I have to admit that I didn´t put up much of a fight. I don´t know where to start. I will say that the cuisine in the North of Italy is a little different from what you expect. But either way, it´s still great. And the ice cream, forget it. It should be illegal.

And in typical Frank style, the first time I drive in Europe (I helped drive back from the art exhibitions in Germany) I get pulled over by the police. Nice!

C´est la vie - Marseilles, France

2007-11-02T08:00:00.001-07:00

(The moonlit beach at La Ciotat)

The days in Belgium starting getting colder so Anne and I decided to head somewhere warmer. We looked at the airport for last minute flights but didn´t have any luck. We checked the train station and the gentleman said there was an availability for Marseille, France. I only needed to know one thing, "Is it warm there?"

The next day, we took the train and headed to the south of France, which is incredibly beautiful by the way. Marseilles was a bigger city so we ended up setting up camp nearby in La Ciotat. We camped under an olive tree, soaked up the sun and enjoyed the beautiful weather on the Mediterranean beaches. It was just what we needed. We hung out at the beach, rented bikes and rode around town, and just relaxed. Also, you´d be surprised at the meals Anne can cook up with just a gas camp stove.

On one of the last days we were there, Anne took me out for my birthday to a nice French restaurant. We got all dressed up and made ourselves pretty. (At least Anne did, there´s no help for me.) Before this place, I didn´t understand cuisine, much less French cuisine, and what all the excitement was about. Let me tell you, its an incredible experience: the atmosphere, music, lighting, wine... I couldn´t even tell you, much less pronounce what I ordered but it was great! It wasn´t necessarily one thing that tasted great, the portions certainly weren´t big, nor overly salty or sweet. But it was all put together and orchestrated just right. It´s a must try.

(In France, swimming pools are boxers only)

One very funny story to leave you with (at least I thought it was funny.) At the campsite I'm staying, there is a swimming pool. I went to take a quick dip and right before I got in the water, the lifeguard instructed me that I couldn't wear my shorts. I showed him the fabric and the lining ensuring him that they were indeed swimming trunks but it wasn't acceptable. He said I needed boxers or briefs. He pointed to the pool and sure enough, there were only boxers or briefs (all of the very tight configuration). I couldn't believe what I heard. But then I thought, "When in Rome,...", France in my case. I changed into my tightest boxers and jumped right in. And I've posted the picture to prove it. The world is a great and interesting place.

Also, for some unknown reason, France doesn't believe in peanut butter. I can't find it in any grocery store anywhere. You can buy ground up duck, fish or pork but not peanuts.

C`est la vie!

Gentse Feesten - Gent, Belgium

2007-11-01T08:00:00.000-07:00

I flew into Brussels, Belgium on July 17th, and went directly to my old 2002 stomping grounds in Gent. From July 14 to the 23rd, the people of Gent celebrate Gentse Feesten which essentially is a city wide 10 day non-stop party with great music, dancing, food and of course, beer and fries (They are Belgian, not French.)

(The city of Gent during the day)

Annegreet and I had a great time. We met up with some of her friends, danced, sampled the beer, the food (waffles, sausages, and of course, the fries) (Even the French will concede their Belgian.)

(Belgium waffle! LEKKER!)

(Annegreet with the fries drenched with mayonaise and curry ketchup!)

One last thing, I thoroughly enjoyed (and you won't find these in the States) the public urinals. (sorry ladies, men only) I know, I know. It's disgusting but there is something magical about it that I can't explain. You just have to experience it. It's peeing outside like men should. Its freedom. Not to mention, practical. During the festival, if public urinals weren't plentiful, men would be peeing everywhere. It would be a nightmare.

(Me, waiting in line for the public urinals.)

Adventures in Europe

2007-07-28T05:46:00.000-07:00

Post #1. It's actually more difficult to find an internet cafe in Europe than in Costa Rica. Most people, like in the US, already have an internet connection so an internet cafe really isn't necessary.

Anyway, life here is good. I spent a week camping in Gent, Belgium and thoroughly enjoyed the Gentsefeesten festivities! Dancing, drinking and food (Belgian waffles, ice cream, ...) After a couple of rainy days though, I was ready for some warm weather.

I'm now in the south of France: La Ciotat (around Marseilles) camping under an olive tree, soaking up the sun and enjoying the beautiful weather on the Mediterranean beaches.

One very funny story to leave you with (at least I thought it was funny.) At the campsite I'm staying, there is a swimming pool. Yesterday, I went to take a quick dip and right before I got in the water, the lifeguard instructed me that I couldn't wear my shorts. I showed him the fabric and the lining ensuring him that they were indeed swimming trunks but it wasn't acceptable. He said I needed boxers or briefs. He pointed to the pool and sure enough, there were only boxers or briefs (all of the very tight configuration). I couldn't believe what I heard. But then I thought, "When in Rome,...", France in my case. I changed into my tightest boxers and jumped right in. I've got pictures to prove it. (I'll post them later.) The world is a great and interesting place.

Also, for some unknown reason, France doesn't believe in peanut butter. I can't find it in any grocery store anywhere. You can buy ground up duck, fish or pork but not peanuts.

C`est la vie

The 4th of July Firecracker Run - 10K

2007-07-05T08:00:00.000-07:00

Denny, my brother & I ran in the Firecracker Run 10K on the 4th of July in Sebree, Kentucky. As you can see, we sported the holiday colors: Red (bandanna), White (shirt) and Blue (shorts).

What's great about this picture is that it makes me look like a GIANT! My brother & I are about the same height and weight. But because he's standing further down the hill and turned to the side, it makes me look taller and broader. Don't forget it little bro!

We had a great time and had great finishing times as well. I was hoping that I would average around 10 minute miles. I couldn't believe it when they said I finished in 51:40, averaging 8:20 minute miles. It was a great ending to a great day.

Looking Back, the True Beauty of Costa Rica

2007-05-15T08:00:00.000-07:00

Before I wrap up the Costa Rica - 2007 blog, I wanted to mention the true beauty of Costa Rica. I don't think you can find any other place in the world with so much natural beauty. But even the most beautiful places can seem a little bit brighter with the right people. I want to take a second to mention some of my friends that I met along the way that made the trip so great.

Sharon, Myself (the Ligador), Laura & Marshal

My first week in Heredia was challenging and I don't know what I would have done without them. I'll never forget when Sharon looked up and saw me that first day of class. She screamed, ran over to me and gave me a jumping hug. (Sharon is a good friend from Raleigh but I didn't know she was going to be in Costa Rica at that time). It was great. We were the Cool Cuatro: in school, at lunch or our personal favorite, Karaoke bars, we were always there.

Me & Rachelle

Sarah, Me, Lindsay, Chio girl, & Kesha (aka Medecine Women)

Gavin, Me & Travis

In Playa Flamingo, I have to thank, Rachelle from Cali, " The Medicine women" as they were affectionately called (they were Med students in SC), Tim, Travis, Gavin & Michelle for the great laughs and incredible times. For the runs on the beach (pun intended), "En mi boca", "I like big butts and I can not lie", crazy dance skills, wonderful conversations on the beach, mud pies, and much much more.

Annegreet, Jolanda & Chris

Orosi was the only place in Costa Rica that felt like home. It was such a great place filled with so many wonderful people. The first week I was there, I ran into Chris, a good'ol country boy from the great city of Raleigh, North Carolina. I couldn't believe it.

I later met his roommates Annegreet and Jolanda from Holland. We had some great times, in the Hot Springs, watching some interesting TV shows at Nido's bar, and just hanging out at the hostel drinking tea, playing card games, Spoons (Anne wasn't really that good), and Jenga.

A couple of weeks later, Jolanda, Anne & I met up and traveled together to Monteverde, La Fortuna and even Nicaragua. We had some rough times: rainy weather, bloody noses, miserable heat, but not once did I have a bad time.

Jon, Adrian, Josue & Femke

At Montana Linda in Orosi, we're all drinking tea and playing Dominos. It's amazing how much fun Dominos and Jenga can be with the right people. And you will be surprised at some of the many different and interesting discussions you can get into.

Josue's Mother & Denny (my Brother)

Denny came down for a week to explore Costa Rica with me: waterfall jumping, surfing, coffee tours, and the scorching heat. It's just a small taste of what Costa Rica has to offer but we had a great time.

I want to thank Josue and his mother for welcoming me into their home and treating me like family. Since the first day I met Josue, he treated me like a good friend. Whenever he could, he offered to help me, whether it was helping me fix my camera or just showing me around San Jose. He & his mother offered me their home, a place at the dinner table and their friendship. (Not to mention some very funny stories) I always felt welcome. I can't thank you all enough!

I think that does it. My trip to Costa Rica was life altering and the memories I made will not be forgotten (especially with all the pictures I took). But like all things, it wouldn't have been half as good without the wonderful people and friends I made. Thank you all.

My Old Kentucky Home

2007-05-14T08:00:00.000-07:00

Home Sweet Home! I was sad to leave Costa Rica but I am happy to be home.

The first picture is of the farm house I grew up in, taken from the road. As you can see, catching the school bus in the morning was a commute, especially on those cold snowy days. The next picture is of the farm house up close.

The last picture is of my brother Denny's new house. Not bad for a farm boy, huh? He's been gracious enough to lend his basement to me until my next voyage.

Until next time....

Volcan Maderas

2007-05-05T08:00:00.000-07:00

Well, I almost died by water, then fire, why not earth? The hike up Volcan Maderas on Isla Ometepe in Nicaragua is definitely an experience. Three & a half hours straight up a steep volcano; what a better way to spend a perfectly good Saturday morning.

The first hour wasn't so bad. The slope was fairly gentle and I was just getting started. But it progressively got worse and worse. The second hour was where men are made. It started to get incredibly steep and you had to watch every step you made because of the loose rocks. One wrong step and you could fall, roll your ankle or any other assortment of painful injuries. At first I thought I was in excellent shape and jog up the hill. Well, I thought that until I was stopping every 15 minutes to catch my breath. And I was counting every minute from the 5th to the 15th. And just when I didn't think it couldn't get any worse, it did. Once we climbed above the clouds, everything became damp & wet, including that nice dirt, the tree roots and those loose rocks. Planning & watching every step you make for hour and a half is draining. And the water was running out quickly.

I can't tell you how ecstatic I was to reach the small crater lake at the top of the volcano. It was like being stranded in the desert only to finally see the oasis. I felt like dropping to my knees and kissing the flat ground where I was standing. Instead, I popped open my can of tuna with jalapeños and took a long awaited nap right there in the grass.

Now, the hike down wasn't near as exhausting but was definitely more intense. For some reason, the guide really wanted to get down. I don't know, maybe he had another appointment. Maybe it was the marijuana he smoked on the way up there. Who knows? But we shaved 2 hours off the trip down, passing other groups who left the top 30 minutes before we did.

All in all, it was a great day and a great sense of accomplishment. I would highly recommend it!

Near Death Experience in Nicaragua (No Joke)

2007-05-02T20:40:00.000-07:00

This is the beautiful ¨Laguna de Apoyo¨, the crater lake in Nicaragua, near Grenada.

It´s a beatufil crater lake (a lake on top of a previously active volcano) and extremely large, over 6 kilometer across and deep enough for people to scuba dive. You can stay next to the shore, lay on hammocks, or take a swim in the clear, warm water, or swim out to the dock and sock up the sun if you like. Very peaceful and tranquil. That´s exactly what I wanted. I brought my swim trunks, a book for some leisurely reading and my journal. I had everything I needed, I thought.

But, they also have kayaks freely available if you would like to take them out. Just ocean kayaks where you sit on the top of them. Just hop in, take off and enjoy. What could be better? Well, what started as a pleasant little kayak stroll, turned into one of those horror stories you see in safety videos or safey belt commercials.

The lake is 6 kilometers across and asked the girl at the desk before I took off if anyone had actually crossed it. She said people had but it takes over 4 hours and they wouldn´t be real enthusiastic about rescuing me if something went wrong. I shrugged it off and didn´t think much about it. I had no intention of crossing the lake. My only thought was that it didn´t look THAT far.

I got in the water, turned left, then right and thought, ¨This is easy money, I´m crossing this mug.¨ And so I did. Going across was very very slow because I was going directly against the wind. Crashing into the waves, slow and steady. It reminded of boats during a storm in movies. When they hit a wave, the boat crashes into it and everyone has trouble seeing because they are getting sprayed with water in their faces. It wasn´t near as dramatic but very similar. Anyway, I don´t know how long it took to cross but my best guess would be around 2 hours. But no worries I thought, with the wind behind me when I return, I could make it back in record time.

And I did. I didn´t even stop or get off the kayak at the other side of the lake. I just touched my paddle on the shore and turned around. I would bet that I made it half way back in 20 minutes or less. I was zooming across the lake and feeling good. I remember thinking ¨I´m going to be back in 2 and a half hours easy. Who said this would take 4 hours?¨ It was then that I noticed the kayak had progressively become more unstable. It was getting harder to balance myself. When I started, I put the kayak in the water and practically stood on top of it. But now, it was hard just to sit. I thought the waves may be the cause because the wind did pick up a little. But then I fell off the kayak. And then again, and again. I realized the kayak was filling up with water and a shift in weight from anything would cause the water inside the kayak to shift and thus flip. I kept going until the point came that just my weight on the kayak would cause it to flip backwards (the backend sank completely underwater and the frontend would fall back on me.) I remember being a little upset and thinking, ¨Damn, this is going to screw up my time.¨ I tried to think of ways to remove the water inside but determined it was in possible without getting to land. I was really irritated because I looked silly swimming next to a kayak in the middle of the lake. And every attempt to get back on made me even more angry because it would flip over. I wasn´t even concerned that I was in the middle of the lake, almost 3 kilometers or roughly 2 miles from land, or that I didn´t have a life jacket. I just thought about how silly it was and how long it would take me to get back.

The game and my perspective changed when on my last and final attempt to straddle the kayak, (I thought if I get in the middle, not in the seat, I could maintain balance) I pulled my legs up fast to get them on the boat and the unthinkable happened. My left calf cramped like never before. I didn´t eat much that day, maybe a pack of peanuts and I hadn´t had much to drink either. I was dehyrdated, hungry, and the run I took around Grenada probably didn´t help matters either.

So I´m in the water trying to swim and my left leg isn´t moving. I can feel the muscle ball up like a rock and the pain tear through my body. It was here that I said, ¨This can´t be happening, this is a deal breaker. People can die from things like this.¨ I swam over to the kayak and managed to throw my body across the kayak, just enough to keep my head above water. I pressed the heel of my right leg into the cramped calf until I felt it release. The whole dynamic from here changed dramatically. I´m not a great swimmer but felt comfortable doing the back float for 2 miles if I absolutely had to. Now, if I left the kayak and had another cramp, I would be a gonner. (I later found out the back float wasn´t going to work either because the waves were too big and would crash over you and your mouth when you tried to breathe.) I stretched out the my leg and used it cautiously. I had a pretty scary thought about drowning and quickly dismissed it because I could simply lay on the kayak and let the waves take me in.

And that was good for the next 30 minutes but I noticed something that really scared me. To gauge my distance or speed, I would always point the kayak to a specific point on the shore in front of me and then look directly over my right shoulder for a reference point. For me, it was a house off in the distance. I remember floating on the kayak for at least a half hour, maybe more and all I saw was that house. I wasn´t moving. At least not at any rate to get me back to land anytime soon.

I had another dreadful thought but quickly dismissed it because now, the worst case scenario was that I lay on the kayak and wait until someone comes after me. They knew I had the kayak and I´d already been gone for over 3 hours. In the hour I was in the water, I had a lot of thoughts race through my mind. What about snakes or fish in the water? What if they don´t come after me? What if the person working the desk didn´t write my name down? What if...?

But I dismissed them all because I could still just lay on the kayak and float back. And within 15 minutes, the kayak flipped while I was just laying on it. It had taken in so much water that any weight, any shift at all, would cause it to flip over. Just hanging on to the side lightly would cause the front end to come out of the water and just about flip over.

Suddenly, all of those fears I had came flooding back into my mind and I didn´t have response. These were valid fears and I needed to do something. I was still in the dead center of the lake and it appeared to be the same distance to the shore, whichever direction I took. I decided to keep moving forward, with the wind, since it was the same distance and started swimming. I kept the kayak with me in case I needed it if only for temporary relief if my leg cramped up again.

I remember when I started to panic. This was real. My luck was running out and quick. I started breathing faster and my mind started racing. But within, seconds, something inside me said,¨This isn´t helping, I need to be calm right now. This is just a waste of energy. I´m not going to die. It´s just that simple. I´m not going to die.¨ I certainly didn´t hear Dad´s voice but it definitely sounds like something he would say. ¨There´s no sense in complaining about it, don´t get excited.¨

It was here when I started getting strategic. The little back support on the kayak could be removed and it functioned as a small float. Although not great, it did provide some bouyancy. The paddle float as well so I laid it under my arms. I still held on to the kayak just in case but I just started swimming. I started waving one of my arms in the air occasionally to signal for help in case anyone was looking. I was constantly thinking, ¨What else can I do? Is their no way to remove the water from the kayak? Would anyone hear me if I yelled for help? How do you say ¨help¨in Spanish?¨

I can´t say that I was a rock and I banished all doubt and fear because I clearly wasn´t. A storm was coming in and the waves were constantly pounding me in the face and making it hard to breathe. My calf wasn´t cramped but I could tell it was tense and one wrong move and it would seize up again. I knew this and it bothered me. I was just about to start screaming for help when I saw a tiny kayak heading towards me in the distance. I couldn´t believe it! ¨I´m saved!¨I thought.

But the battle wasn´t quite over. The storm came in and fast. With the heavy rain and the rough waves, it made it very difficult to get the kayak back to shore. But after another 30 to 45 minutes and some help from a kind (and appreciated) Irish couple, I finanlly made it back to land. Sweet, sweet land! The kayak that towed me in was impossible to navigate in the weather so we just paddled with the current and let it take us in wherever it liked. Once on land, I drained the water from the kayak. I would bet that it was over half way full. No joke.

I paddled back to the shop with a standing ovation waiting for me. Sunburned from head to toe, completely (and I mean completely) dehydrated, starved and exhausted but alive. Just barely, but alive. Not a bad day.

Here´s a picture of me the next day with the infamous kayak:

Moral of the story. Always wear a LIFE JACKET!

The Gates of Hell - Volcan Masaya, Nicaragua

2007-05-02T17:49:00.000-07:00

Native tribes of Nicaragua used to throw women into this active volcano as sacrifices to their gods in hopes of preventing another eruption. And when the Spaniards discovered the volcano, they believed it was the gateway to Hell. They even erected a cross next to the crater in an attempt to cleanse this unholy ground. I remembered reading this and thinking how strange and superstitious people were back then. Who would think that?

After my visit, I would! I don´t believe it is the gateway to Hell but I do see how one would get that impression.

From the minute you are on the trail leading up the volcano, you get a feeling of death and desolation. The terrain is littered with black rock and ash from the previous eruption and the trees and grass are brown and withered. And the silence is broken only by the sound of the hot, dry breeze which smells of sulfur.

When you walk to the side of the crater, you are surrounded by vultures. The sky is covered with them, circling and patiently waiting. And for every one in the air, it seems like there are at least 2 or 3 on the ground, some close enough to touch. If you´ve ever seen a vulture up close, you understand why they were often seen as bad omens or the prescence of death.

And you can hear the volcano breathing as you approach the crater. It releases its poisonous fumes with a slow and deep whoosh, constant and penetrating, like a heavy breathe or drum beat. You must limit your time next to the crater because the sulfur from the fumes will burn your eyes and cause you to cough.

Later that night, we took a tour of the volcano where we could actually peer into the volcano and see the lava. We had to use gas masks because of the fumes:

You couldn´t really take a good picture of the lava (it just shows up as a red dot.) but it was incredible, a red boiling furnace of breathing lava.

And just when you thought it couldn´t get better... The lava from the last eruption had created caves around the volcano and we had a chance to take a look. The caves were interesting and you could see where native tribes had etched primitive drawings on the walls but to me. But the most interesting part for me, was the entrance.

If you get to the caves around sunset, you arrive just when all of the bats are leaving. Take a look at this picture:

You could stand right in front of the cave as hundreds of the bats fly right past you. If you´ve seen the movie, Batman Returns, then you have an idea of what it looks like. You can close your eyes and listen to them fly right past you. Incredible!

It may not be the gateway to Hell but if I had to imagine what it would look like, I say Volcan Masaya comes pretty close.

Cajero Automatico

2007-04-30T08:22:00.000-07:00

It was inevitable, but I didn´t think it would happen to me. I just arrived in Grenada, Nicaragua last night. After sleeping on a couch (they didn´t have any beds) and trying to avoid countless couples making out in the dark (they were everywhere, in hammocks, on the couch next to me, standing up, etc.) I went to the bank this morning to withdraw some Cordoba cash. Well, 18 Cordobas is roughly $1 and my attempt to withdrawal $50 went awry. Yes, 1, plus a couple zeros and you have a potential disaster on your hands...

Luckily, I only put one zero too many so I´m left with $500. But if you see 10,000 Cordobas, you feel like Bill Gates and your pocket shows it as well. I´m not sure what I´m going to do with it yet, even if I exchange it back for US dollars. I guess the only logical thing to do is to rent a horse and cart (not uncommon here) and start throwing Benjamins (or the equivalent) out on the street. Bling´n all the way!

Den takes over Costa Rica

2007-04-29T05:58:00.000-07:00

I have to give my brother big props for:

1) Getting down here to Costa Rica and coming to see me. Thanks Den!
2) For jumping off this crazy secluded waterfall in Montezuma. (Yes Marshall, there is another and better waterfall directly above the one we visited.)

Now from the picture, it looks like the cliff is all of about 5 feet but in reality, you´re looking at a man who jumped somewhere to the tune of about 25´to 35´ without hesitation. An attempt I eventually tried (only once) after much contemplation and only after Denny completed the jump several times. I´ve skydived before and the feeling of jumping off this was very similar. It could have been a little bit more risky / insane because no one had extensively documented the existence of rocks or the depth of the pool below. Not to mention the fact that the nearest hospital would have been about 4 hours away but that´s what makes Costa Rica fun!

You can see that safety was his primary concern from his form during the jump. One hand over the nose to protect against water infiltration to the nasal cavity and the other arm extended and parallel to the body for ease of surface water penetration. Perfect form for maximum safety.

I make fun (because it´s my blog and I can) but until you see my jump (which won´t be possible because of technical difficulties.) with arms and legs flailing like a crazed monkey, you haven´t seen anything funny yet.

Another tough day

2007-04-20T08:00:00.000-07:00

After a strenous day surfing at Playa Maderas in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua, I had to take some time to relax (taking care not to over exert myself) and take in the beautiful scenery. If you don´t own a hammock, I encourage you to stop whatever you´re doing at this very moment (work, school, driving or something more important like watching TV) and make this investment. It´s the best money you´ve spent since your first Happy Meal at McDonalds. Guaranteed!

Windsurfing at Lake Arenal

2007-04-13T07:00:00.000-07:00

Windsurfing at Lake Arenal is one of the best in the world. It wasn´t necessarily the best in the world the day I went but it was good for someone like me (who has the coordination of a drunken monkey) who was trying it for the first time.

I placed the first picture at the beginning because this is where I spent 98% of my day. Off the board, in the water, angry, frustrated and wet.

Photo 2 is my grueling Dutch instructor looking down in disappointment as I struggle to get control of the sail, yet again! She was great but relentless and often muttering things in Dutch like ¨You stupid worthless American!¨ or ¨Americans are inferior to Dutch.¨ (This is even more funny if you´ve actually met Jolanda. She is one of the sweetest people you will meet.) (Yeah

Photo 3 is VICTORY. I don´t know what happened. All of sudden, my body just understood how it was supposed to work and I just started sailing. As luck would have it, it is also the approximate time that the wind stopped. I´m ready for the big show now though. I really enjoyed it and would like to try it again. Unlike surfing (regular unleaded), if you know what you are doing, you really never have to get into the water nor have the waves beat you down. Lekker!

I´m ready for the big show now. Gracias por todos, Jolanda!

I'm alive, but just barely...

2007-03-29T19:53:00.000-07:00

Yes, I'm alive. I've been traveling throughout the Caribbean side of Costa Rica and (crossed over to Panama as well) for the last 2 weeks. Tortuguero, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo and Bocas Del Toro Islands in Panama. I survived a bike wreck, vicious spider monkeys (For God's sake, don´t feed them. Take it from a guy who fed them!), buses breaking down, and no running water for 3 days (Can you say "stinky"?)

Details to follow, be patient.

Running of the Dogs!

2007-03-13T07:26:00.000-07:00

This picture isn't the best but will get the idea. In Heredia, I used to run at about 5:45 in the morning because the weather was incredible (eternal Spring) and there weren't many cars on the road yet (less exhaust.) I would make a loop or two around the soccer field next to the church. Little did I know that once or twice a week, this field becomes a feeding frenzy. The lady above apparently feeds these stray dogs raw chicken. Stray dogs are literally everyone in Costa Rica and they have never been a problem for me. But I've never seen them in packs before either. On this day, however, the entire city of stray, homeless, hungry dogs gather together jovially to feast on a small unfulfilling banquet of raw chicken. I think you see where this is going.

I jogged by them after the banquet was over but didn't think anything of it. No big deal right.

Well, one small and I mean small dog (1 ft long, 6 inches tall, a dog you can just throw against a wall) starts chasing me as I jog by. I ignore him because of his size which was a mistake. In dog speak, he asks the rest of the dog congregation to follow suit. Included in this group is a band of some larger canines, all of which, are very unhappy about my presence.

Within seconds, I'm running at full speed from a pack of rabbi's infested, grub hungry dogs down the streets in Heredia. I honestly didn't know what to do and it's difficult to think when you can hear dogs barking and biting directly behind you.

Well, as I turned the corner, I turned around and saw a large dog behind me barking. As soon as I turned back around, I felt my shorts pull back as he attempted to bite me. Without thought, I quickly stopped, turned around and yelled at the top of my lungs. Nothing comprehensible, just a loud roar. I don't know what I expected to accomplish but I was just mad. That dog crossed a line and since flight wasn't working, it was time to fight. What's funny is that all of the dogs scattered except the little dog that had caused the trouble in the first place. I was so angry! I ran after him hoping to kick him about 50 yards but he scurried away.

Imagine watching a foreigner outside of your window getting chased by dogs and then yelling to the top of his lungs at 6:00 in the morning. That's a funny site.

Interesting Tidbits about Costa Rica

2007-03-12T19:39:00.000-07:00

Tidbit #1:

There are no water heaters in Costa Rica. The hot water (warm water, hot water would be an overstatement) for your shower is generated from the shower head contraption itself (see above). It's a little scary at first because you have electric wires (I've even seen bare wires) running to your shower head. These little contraptions are far from dependable and you usually have to play with them for about 30 to 45 seconds before you'll actually feel anything warm.

Tidbit #2:

The sewer systems in Costa Rica are not setup to flush toilet paper down the commodes. All toilet paper must go in the waste basket. If you're down here, you've got to break yourself of the habit.

Tidbit #3:

They really don't have street names down here. San Jose is the only place where I've seen some type of system. The other places are "300 meters north of the church,..."

Tidbit #4:

Each town in Costa Rica has 3 things: Church, School & (you guessed it) Soccer Field. The rest our optional but you will always find these things.

Tidbit #5:

You really do eat rice & beans everyday for every meal. You certainly don't have to but it is very common here. And after a while, its actually pretty good. The food is very different from Mexican food and to imply it is offensive to Ticans (Costa Ricans).

The one thing they have here is incredibly cheap fruit. They make great fruit drinks with milk. When I get back to the States, I will definitely be eating more fruits.

My Travels

2007-03-12T18:15:00.000-07:00

I bet you're wondering, "Frank, where did you get such a clear map and beautiful artwork?" Well, I'm on a budget. That's all I can say. My email access has been limited so I wanted to try to catch everyone up on my travels while I'm in San Jose (and the Internet access is plentiful) for the night.

On Jan 21, I flew into San Jose and was taken to my host family in Heredia (only a 15 minute drive.) I studied in Heredia at a school called CPI (http://www.cpi-edu.com/) They have 3 different campuses: Heredia, Monteverde & Playa Flamingo. I studied with CPI for a total of 5 weeks: 3 in Heredia and 2 in Playa Flamingo. During my stay, I visited:

-Manual Antonio National Park (1 weekend)
-Puntarenas & Montezuma (1 weekend)
-Playa Tamarindo (my first try at surfing, NICE!)
-Playa Conchal (a beach made of shells instead of sand)

After Playa Flamingo, I've been studying at a school called Montana Linda (www.montanalinda.com) It's in the very small town of Orosi but it is wonderful. The people are very friendly and helpful. Besides being a great place to live, surrounded on all sides by mountains, rivers & waterfalls, the school & hostel are extremely affordable ($480/month). Even with a homestay (2 meals/day & laundry), it's still only $680/month. You can't beat it anywhere in Costa Rica.

Last weekend, a group of us went to Volcan Irazu and afterward to the town of Turriabla for white water rafting on the Rio Pacuare (#5 Best Rafting River in the world). I didn't bring my camera during the trip because I was afraid it would find it's way back in the river but I wish I had taken a disposable camera. The views of the valleys and the rain forest were unreal, absolutely incredible! Amazing!

Tonight, I'm staying in San Jose to catch the bus to Puerto Viejo (on the Carribean) in the morning and then to the islands of Bocas del Toro in Panama next week.

From there, I'm not sure. I would like to continue learning Spanish but I would also like to continue travel as well. We'll see.

Canon cameras are the best!

2007-03-12T17:30:00.000-07:00

Just a side note. My camera mysteriously recovered from the dip in the river. The day I was going to take it to the camera repair shop, I turned it on & it worked like a charm. Happy Day!

Volcan Irazu

2007-03-12T17:13:00.000-07:00

I love this photo. I was at Volcan Irazu, near Orosi in the Central Valley. I see a path around the other side of the crater that has "Do Not Enter" & "Danger" signs posted but a path has clearly been made. As the clouds start to move in, I take off down the steep hill to explore the other side. I felt like I was in an episode of Star-Trek on another planet: completely surrounded with white mist, a dead silence and desolate landscape void of all life. Incredible!

Surfer Dude!

2007-03-07T09:53:00.000-08:00

I've had a couple people express deep concerns that I would not surf during my time in Costa Rica. I'm here to dismiss this rumor once and for all and I have a picture to prove it. During my stay in Playo Flamingo, we took a bus

to Playa Tamarindo for an afternoon of surfing. It was challenging but really fun. I even stood up on my first actual wave. My roomate had been surfing since he was 12 so he gave me the low down. I plan to find another beach soon for about a week of it. Maybe on the Carribean side this time but I'm not sure. I've heard Malpais & Santa Teresa are nice.

Pura Vida!

Me gusta leche de gato!

2007-03-07T09:24:00.000-08:00

Last night, my mama tica prepared a fruit drink for me. Fruit drinks are very popular here and they are very good ( & nutritious!) As I was lifting the glass to take a drink, I asked her what kind of milk it was. At that moment, here daughter's cat ran under the kitchen table and she responded "cat." I spit the milk back in the glass and set it down because I thought I was drinking cat's milk. She laughed for about 10 minutes at the expression on my face. It was only milk blended with canteloupe.

Since then, I ask for "leche de gato" for every meal.

Camera'less

2007-03-05T10:48:00.000-08:00

Since I'm starting off my first post without a picture, I thought it would be appropriate to start off by saying that I don't have a camera. Correction, I don't have a functioning camera.

I was hopping from rock to rock (more like boulders) in the Rio Macho in (Orosi, Costa Rica) trying to find a nice rock to relax on and do some homework. When I landed on one of the boulders, it shifted, causing me to fly forward. Both of my flip-flops ripped off and I busted up my big toe as I scrambled to stop myself from eating the next rock. After my heart started beating again, I heard something splash in the river. I noticed that my water bottle in my backpack was missing. And soon after, I noticed that it was starting to flow down stream. I quickly rushed out to grab it. Ecstatic, I went back ashore to repair my destroyed sandals and tend to my bleeding toe. It wasn't then until I realized that my camera was in the same pocket as my water bottle. Indeed, it had fell in the river but sank comfortably to the bottom of the shallow part of the river. I recovered it and after letting it dry. It works but the lenses and the LCD are fogged up. I'll see if I can get someone to overcharge me to fix it this week.

Pura Vida!